Volcanic energy

Etna as seen from Capo Milazzo

 

There are many reasons to want to leave Sicily. They grow in number when you have kids. A poor healthcare system, malfunctioning public services (Sicilians and expats alike DREAD going to the comune - council offices - for official documents), and an education system that leaves much to be desired.

But there are as many reasons to stay, or maybe there are more. Etna is one of them.

Etna is one the reasons Sicilians abroad wax lyrical about the Motherland and why they often find the pull to the homeland so powerful as to return. Catanese refer to the volcano as "la Montagna" such is their respect. Of course if you live in the province of Catania, you will have a daily view of the changing faces of Etna. If you go hiking in mountainous terrain in the north eastern part of Sicily, you can turn a corner and be surprised by a stunning view of Etna's peak. I consider myself lucky to be able to see Etna from the end of my street. Even though the volcano is over an hour away, the view is spectacular, especially on a clear day. And night eruptions are mesmerising. 

I remember studying volcanoes at school and asking the Geography teacher why anyone would want to live on the foothills of Europe's most active volcano. She smiled and replied, "Many people would wonder why anyone would want to live in Northern Ireland during the Troubles". It was a good answer. But it probably takes a walk around one of Etna's extinct craters, or a misty hike at sundown in October on Etna Sud or a tobaggon down its snowy slopes in winter to be really hooked. The beauty of Etna is that you can never get enough. There are Etna Nord's more verdant slopes, the mysterious valleys of Etna Sud and then all the woods and mountain villages to explore, each offering a different panorama and local lore to add to Etna's mythic majesty.

Etna's allure also comes out of the many legends associated with the volcano, always figured as a feminine form by the Catanese. The most famous one has Etna saving Zeus from the wrath of the flame-spewing giant Tifeo by smothering the giant with her body just as he was about to give a fatal blow to Zeus. Still huffing and puffing today, Tifeo's efforts to free himself materialise as new craters when Etna erupts. Etna, wise warrior and protector of her children, offers the fruits of the land on her fertile slopes. 

It's no coincidence that Etna Rosso, a mix of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio is my favourite wine. You can probably get Etna Rosso in your local winestore, as in recent years wine producers have started to market it after the success of Syrah and Nero d'Avola. 

But you can only feel the volcanic energy here in Sicily.


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